January 26, 2014
We ended up spending less time in
Potsdam proper than expected, as Nick's interview took quite a long
time.
In the end, we left the Institute
around 4 PM and made our way back into town. We were disinclined to
go straight back to Berlin after having traveled all this way, so
instead we took a quick bus to see the nearby castle, Sansoucii. The
castle grounds were massive and nearly completely empty at that hour
in the late afternoon. The sky darkened quickly, and soon we were
wandering in the gloomy twilight, crunching along in the snow. It
felt very quiet and lonely, but very beautiful as well.
As it got later, the freezing weather
and our hunger drove us back to Berlin, where we feasted in the
invitingly warm Tibetan restaurant near Nick's house.
The following day was spent leisurely:
sleeping in and visiting the gym. The highlight of the day was going
to the nearby paint-your-own ceramics shop for the third installment
of my Christmas present. We chose a nested teapot to paint. Nick
painted the cup while I painted the pot. On the cup, I added a small
otter curled up at the bottom (my animal counterpart), and a
slumbering black bear to the teapot (Nick's animal counterpart). We
will each take our respective pieces when I leave, and we'll put them
back together when we meet next.
I know, we're so unbearably cute I
could vomit. <3
The
next day was a busy one, and one of the most enjoyable ones so far.
We started the day by heading off to a Turkish market for an early
lunch. We ate some fabulous falafels, and I couldn't resist a
mouth-watering strawberry nutella crepe. After browsing around the
market, we then continued on to the Jewish Museum for the rest of the
afternoon. That has been my favorite museum so far on the trip. It
was fascinating, heartbreaking, solemn, thought-provoking, and
beautiful. The exhibits themselves were increible, and the very
arcitechture of the building was well worth the visit---elevating it
from a simple museum trip to a unique experience. My favorite part of
the museum was the Holocaust Tower. It's at the very end of the
exhibit on the Holocaust, so you are already in a raw, solemn mood.
The “tower” is an austere room with looming, gray walls. The only
light is from a slit near the top of the tower, and it is unheated
and very bitingly cold after the coming from the warm museum. Sounds
from the outside street can be heard, but they are muted and garbled,
ghostly noises that seem to come from a long ways away.
The
Tower has no express purpose or aim as expressed by the architect,
but it was nonetheless undeniably powerful.
After
a few hours in the Jewish Museum, we ate a quick dinner and then went
to go meet one of Nick's friends from work along with his girlfriend:
Philip and Olivia.
Olivia
and Nick led us into a fantastic little bar tucked away in the
streets of downtown Berlin, called Salon zur Wilden Renate. The decor
was Alice in Wonderland meets grunge meets Victorian England. The
ceiling was full of old umbrella skeletons laced with flower
garlands. Old velvet furniture littered the rooms, with wooden crates
acting as tables. Black and white portraits hung from the walls, and
a fire burned cheerfully in a wood stove. The whole place was a
violent mishmash, and I loved it.
But
that wasn't the best part. The best part came a couple hours later in
the evening. When we had entered, we had been given a gold coin. They
told us not to lose it, but to go and enjoy a few beers. About an
hour or so later, a woman came into the room and one by one, she led
members of our group away. I was the third to go. In the back of the
bar, she put a blindfold around my head and then led me through a
door. After a little ways, holding her hands as she guided me, she
took the blindfold off and left me in a room all alone, with nothing
but a video screen and a small slot that unmistakably read “insert
coin here”.
From
there started the most bizarre labyrinth I have ever experienced. I
wish I could capture it was words, but it was so full of unsettling
sights, such a sensory overload, that I know no mere description
could possibly do it justice. So I will try to settle for a few
snapshots (PREFACE: If you ever want to go to this labyrinth, I would
suggest not reading this, because it is much better to go in with
zero preconceptions!):
The
central room was shaped like an egg, with what seemed like veins or
spiderwebs running across the inside surface. Using these, you could
climb all over it to reach the many tunnels going out to the rest of
the labyrinth.
A
pitch black tunnel with stones jutting up out of the ground designed
to trip you. The only light was a strobe flash that went off
maddeningly sparsely. As you groped your way through the darkness, a
quiet rumbling sound became louder and louder, until it roared in
your ears. You made your way through the tunnel, only to find that it
was a dead end, and you have to creep all the way back.
A
short tunnel with thousands of strips of heavy cloth or leather
hanging down. As you make your way blindly through, you cannot feel
any walls—only that slithery cloth all around you. And then,
suddenly, you bump into a strip will bells tied to it, and their high
pitched tinkling sends your pulse sky-rocketing.
A gray
staircase
with slanted, broken, uneven steps. The ceiling is so low that you
nearly have to crawl up them.
A room
no bigger than a closet, with a small chair seated in front of a
ladder leading into darkness.
It was
disorienting, creepy, and fabulous. Probably my favorite thing we've
done in Berlin so far, and it felt very typically Berlin. I'm hoping
to take Lindsay there at the end of the trip.
Speaking
of Lindsay, she came in later that night! She arrived as scattered
and hair-brained as ever: she had forgotten her purse at the Chinese
restaurant where she had eaten dinner, she had missed her stop on the
bus, and she hadn't brought enough money for the subsequent cab ride
to Nick's apartment. It's good to see some things never change.
We
went to bed soon after she arrived, but the next few days since then
have been fabulous. WE retrieved her purse from the restaurant the
next morning, then spend the day at the aquarium. I also tried my
very first currywurst! It was dangerously delicious.
The
next day, Lindsay and I ventured out on our own to the
Gamaldegallerie, a fabulous art museum that exclusively houses old
art from the Byzantine era up to the Renaissance. The collection was
extensive, and I enjoyed every minute of it.
From
there, it was off to Gottingen! We've been here for two days, and
it's been very relaxed—days spent wandering around downtown and the
University campus, eating at the mess hall, and getting a little work
done while Lindsay is away at class. Even though we haven't been
doing a lot of specific activities, being able to spend quality time
with Lindsay has been more than I could ask for!
Nick is so proud of his hummus making skills
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